The Spanish conquistadors came to Puerto Rico in 1493, during Christopher Columbus’ second voyage to the New World.
We often, thanks to Neil Young and elementary history book, hear tales of Cortez the Killer. Yet what is rarely mentioned are the sweeping reforms ensured by the crown and papacy in the mid 16th century with the Law of the Burgos and Law of the Indies which regulated proper treatment of indigenous peoples of this area.
More than 500 years later, Margaret and family discovered the spirit and adventure of El Conquistador, a private island 300 feet above the Caribbean Sea and experienced some true hospitality and amazing experiences and views over Thanksgiving Break!
10 years ago, I was 8 months pregnant with twins; I worked as a Pet Sitter in Woodbury. My husband, a school teacher, was also just out of Luther Seminary. We had worked hard & thought we‘d take a couple of days off work.
Rick suggested we take a 3 or 4 day trip Up North and in MN ‘up north’ remains pretty much a proper noun.
I agreed as long as there was water. Water to a swollen belly of twins and two placentas is a good marriage; water is relaxing to bellies, therapeutic for most bodies… ”I don’t care where you book as long as there is water”.
Of course “vacation” in my husband’s world might be defined as a week spent clearing brush for camp fires and entering the Boundary Waters, carrying a canoe up 90 steps, before portaging, and, where there is no indoor plumbing.
At 8 months pregnant I trusted all would be well… this time. We arrived UP NORTH, no swimming pool in my sight.
I glanced over at the husband as we pulled into a resort upon the North Shore. The arms were spread out wide across Lake Superior and then the announcement ‘you got all the water, you’ll ever need… nice ‘n coooool’.
Since the husband had showed up in red plaid shirt and emerald green cargo shorts (looking like a Christmas Elf in July, I lived with it). I learned to trust that there was more than one way to enjoy water, and, who knows, maybe the icy depths of Superior would freeze within, some inner calm.
Until…
After traipsing down the cliff [Rick would say “well marked trail], climbed boulders [Rick -- over a few agates] my doctor would not have been too happy about, crossed some kind of stream [Rick -- ankle deep and clear as from the dawn of creation] to finally [Rick --promptly] land the chairs, food, fishing equipment into Lake Superior in July [Rick--safely from the heat and humidity of the Twin Cities].
I dipped my feet into the water and picked up all I could [Rick would say--a chair], batting away big flies at 9am in the morning [Rick would agree with this part. They were no larger than any other fly, save the odd Horse Fly] and cursed the husband all the way back. Freezing water in JULY [the husband would say--perhaps a refreshing pool of “good-morning!”]
This was a moment of clarity - grounds for some kind of departure and the details for joint custody of some kind [husband would say - bunch of histrionic ham-boning].
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Not everyone has a chance to sojourn on a magnificent lava peninsula in Puerto Rico. When they say some experiences are a respite from the world…that certainly was the journey & it was a masterpiece. As a military family, we enjoy huge discounts to visit certain places, what a blessing.
The history of the resort is fascinating. Two developers from Michigan came to the island in 1955 to open a factory for the United States Navy. It began as an eighty-room hotel. Soon it was the ‘in’ place to stay. Stories had ‘glass cage’ effect that framed views of nearby island and the sea. Expansion came in the 1960’s.
El Conquistador was the epitome of the glamorous Caribbean resort until the Middle East oil embargo of the mid-1970, the subsequent recession and diminishing island tourism took a heavy toll. It closed.
In its recent reincarnation $120 million has been spent remodeling the resort, plus a new $12 million Coqui Water Park, and owned by Waldorf Astoria Hotels & Resorts. It is PR’s largest hotel with 910 rooms.
Every half hour, water taxis depart the resort’s marina for Isla Palominos, where we experienced pure white sand and water sports on a private 100 acre tropical paradise, Palomino Island.
There are 20 restaurants, a casino, as well as a championship 18 hole golf course. Splash Bars, international chef’s cuisine and drinks.
An opportunity to drift along lazily or experience outdoor fun & adventure.
Relaxation is achieved & belly relaxed finally. But, to be honest, untrue to its name, the Conquistador held very little of the adventurer, explorer, soldier as did the actual Spanish Conquistadors.
So perhaps, this Puerto Rican resort should be renamed ‘North Shore’ and the Superior joint, ‘Conquistador’ for I felt much more like Cortez and Pizarro 10 years ago than I do today.
